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There Are Now Many Choices for Wood Screws

When doing Do-it-Yourself projects, a lot of folks get confused about what screws to use to carry out their job. There are so many choices…..so many dimensions to decide on. What length should the screw be? How thick of a shank do I need? Slotted drives? Torx drive? Quadrex? What type of point do you need? Zip? Tek Point? Type 17 point? There is a purpose why each screw has a particular specification or attribute and if you don’t know how your screw is going to perform you will end up blaming the fastener if it doesn’t do what you want it to when the true cause was how it was used. Let’s take a look at how you can decide what type of wood screws to use.

As the name suggests, wood screws are utilized when you are doing work with wood. A lot of your wood screws will be produced from a metal that isn’t likely to react with the resins as well as treatment chemicals within the wood. Some metals will leave a rather unpleasant looking stain if they come into contact with particular chemicals or resins. It used to be that you only had two choices of material for wood screws – plain carbon steel or carbon steel with zinc plating. Sometimes you could locate stainless wood screws. Now however, you can find screws for wood, usually deck screws, with special plating to protect them from chemically treated wood. They are commonly obtainable in 500 and 1000 hour salt spray tested.

There are a few options when it comes to wood screws or rather, screws you use in wood. There are wood screws that require pre-drilling since their point isn’t sharp or hard enough to self start. They have coarse threads so that the wood will fill in between the threads and help to prevent them from pulling out of the softer wood or particle board. Generally, they have a prominent smooth shank (sometimes called a shoulder) to help pull together the two pieces being fastened.

Another alternative is what is referred to as a Type 17 point, which has a sharp point and the thread will go all the way to the tip of the point
with finer threads, generally 18 threads per inch. These work wonderful in the harder woods. As you put pressure on the screw and turn it
using a drill it’ll cut into the wood and create its very own hole. These are typically rather tight fitting and don’t often tear loose. They have a cut at the tip of the point so that the displaced wood has an avenue of escape and will keep the wood from splitting.

The majority of wood screws may also have an area of non-threaded metal just beneath the head. This is so that you are able to allow the top of the screw to slide through the top piece of wood so you are able to tightly fasten the two bits of wood together.

For do-it-yourself projects to go smoothly, make certain that you pick the proper screw with the right features for the wood you’re going to be using and for the correct application. You should also determine if you need to use of the self tapping variety or if you will need to have to pre-drill. Just about all wood screws will work for just about all woods, however getting the best screw for the job is certainly best.

Here’s a quick word of advice to point you in the right direction: For harder woods, fine threaded wood screws work best. For the softer woods or particle board, the coarse threaded screws are more appropriate. These are also sometimes called particle board screws.

Head Screw Lady Since 1986! Specializing in breaking down the language barrier between suppliers and end users. During her 35 years working in the fastener industry, MaryLouise has worked directly with end users, contractor’s, OEM’S and DIY, as well working within the import industry, working with fastener manufacturers and distributors. This has given her the unique perspective of having the technical knowledge needed to perform in the fastener world but also be familiar with the needs of end users who don’t necessarily know the fastener jargon or applications to know exactly what they need for their jobs.