There Are Now Many Choices for Wood Screws

There Are Now Many Choices for Wood Screws

When doing Do-it-Yourself projects, a lot of folks get confused about what screws to use to carry out their job. There are so many choices…..so many dimensions to decide on. What length should the screw be? How thick of a shank do I need? Slotted drives? Torx drive? Quadrex? What type of point do you need? Zip? Tek Point? Type 17 point? There is a purpose why each screw has a particular specification or attribute and if you don’t know how your screw is going to perform you will end up blaming the fastener if it doesn’t do what you want it to when the true cause was how it was used. Let’s take a look at how you can decide what type of wood screws to use.

As the name suggests, wood screws are utilized when you are doing work with wood. A lot of your wood screws will be produced from a metal that isn’t likely to react with the resins as well as treatment chemicals within the wood. Some metals will leave a rather unpleasant looking stain if they come into contact with particular chemicals or resins. It used to be that you only had two choices of material for wood screws – plain carbon steel or carbon steel with zinc plating. Sometimes you could locate stainless wood screws. Now however, you can find screws for wood, usually deck screws, with special plating to protect them from chemically treated wood. They are commonly obtainable in 500 and 1000 hour salt spray tested.

There are a few options when it comes to wood screws or rather, screws you use in wood. There are wood screws that require pre-drilling since their point isn’t sharp or hard enough to self start. They have coarse threads so that the wood will fill in between the threads and help to prevent them from pulling out of the softer wood or particle board. Generally, they have a prominent smooth shank (sometimes called a shoulder) to help pull together the two pieces being fastened.

Another alternative is what is referred to as a Type 17 point, which has a sharp point and the thread will go all the way to the tip of the point
with finer threads, generally 18 threads per inch. These work wonderful in the harder woods. As you put pressure on the screw and turn it
using a drill it’ll cut into the wood and create its very own hole. These are typically rather tight fitting and don’t often tear loose. They have a cut at the tip of the point so that the displaced wood has an avenue of escape and will keep the wood from splitting.

The majority of wood screws may also have an area of non-threaded metal just beneath the head. This is so that you are able to allow the top of the screw to slide through the top piece of wood so you are able to tightly fasten the two bits of wood together.

For do-it-yourself projects to go smoothly, make certain that you pick the proper screw with the right features for the wood you’re going to be using and for the correct application. You should also determine if you need to use of the self tapping variety or if you will need to have to pre-drill. Just about all wood screws will work for just about all woods, however getting the best screw for the job is certainly best.

Here’s a quick word of advice to point you in the right direction: For harder woods, fine threaded wood screws work best. For the softer woods or particle board, the coarse threaded screws are more appropriate. These are also sometimes called particle board screws.

This and That About Wood Screws

This and That About Wood Screws

When executing Do-it-Yourself projects, quite a few folks get perplexed about what fasteners to use to perform their job. There are a lot of choices…so many dimensions to decide upon. What length should the screw be? How thick of a shank do I need? Philips drives? Torx drive? Hex Head? What type of point do you need? Zip? Tek Point? Type 17 point? There is a reason why each fastener has a certain specification or attribute and if you don’t know how your screw is going to perform you will end up blaming the screw if it doesn’t perform how you want it to when the real cause was how it was used. Let’s take a look at how you can figure out what sort of wood screws to use.

As the name suggests, wood screws are used when you are doing work with wood. Many of your wood screws will be produced from a metal that isn’t likely to react with the resins as well as treatment chemicals within the wood. Some metals will leave a rather unpleasant looking stain if they come into contact with particular chemicals or resins. It used to be that you only had two choices of material for wood screws – plain carbon steel or carbon steel with zinc plating. Sometimes you could locate stainless wood screws. Now however, you can find screws for wood, usually deck screws, with special plating to protect them from chemically treated wood. They are generally available in 500 and 1000 hour salt spray tested.

There are a few selections when it comes to wood screws or rather, screws you use in wood. There are wood screws that require pre-drilling since their point isn’t sharp or hard enough to self start. They have coarse threads so that the wood will fill in between the threads and help to prevent them from pulling out of the softer wood or particle board. Generally, they have a prominent smooth shank (sometimes called a shoulder) to help pull together the two pieces being fastened.

Another option is what is referred to as a Type 17 point, which has a very sharp point and the thread will go all the way to the tip of the point with finer threads, generally 18 threads per inch. These work wonderful in the harder woods. As you put pressure on the screw and turn it using a drill it’ll cut into the wood and create its very own hole. These are typically rather tight fitting and don’t often tear loose. They have a cut at the tip of the point so that the displaced wood has an avenue of escape and keeps the wood from splitting.
Wood Screw

The vast majority of wood screws may also have an area of non-threaded metal just beneath the head. This is so that you are able to allow the top of the screw to slide through the top piece of wood so you are able to tightly fasten the two bits of wood together.

For DIY projects to go easily, make certain that you pick the proper screw with the right features for the wood you’re going to be using and for the correct application. You should also determine if you need to use of the self tapping variety or if you will need to have to pre-drill. Just about all wood screws will work for just about all woods, however getting the best fastener for the job is definitely ideal.

Here’s a quick suggestion to point you in the right direction: For harder woods, fine threaded wood screws work best. For the softer woods or particle board, the coarse threaded screws are more appropriate. These are also often called particle board screws.

Self-tapping Ceramic Coated Zip Screws

Self-tapping Ceramic Coated Zip Screws

What are ceramic coated zip screws? Everybody is used to seeing common self-tapping needlepoint screws, also known as zip screws, which are plated zinc. These screws are primarily manufactured for inside installations since zinc plating is not really rust resistant enough for outdoor use. Zinc plating is usually available in three colors – white zinc (the most popular), blue zinc (very attractive for screws that are exposed) and yellow zinc (very popular plating for cabinet installers).

Another familiar variation to zip screws are standard zinc plated with the heads of the screws painted to match the gutters or siding.

A much less well known option is the ceramic coated needlepoint screws. Other names used for ceramic coating is Ruspert and Dacromet coatings. These ceramic coated zip screws offer more resistance to rust. The entire screw is coated, including the shank, with a method which can safeguard them with a 500 hour or 1000 hour salt spray tested product. These same screws can be bought with the heads color painted as well. This offers additional protection as well as matching the color scheme of gutters and siding. They are not as rust resistant as, say, stainless steel self-piercing screws, but they do very well in applications that need a little more resistance to rust.

MATERIAL /FINISH: CERAMIC COATED CARBON STEEL (1000 HOUR SALT SPRAY TESTED)

The ceramic coating is a non-organic, tri-layered ceramic surface coating developed to attain the best possible performance in the numerous pollutive and atmospheric conditions that cause corrosion. The 1st layer: a metallic zinc layer, the 2nd layer: a high-grade anti-corrosion chemical conversion film, and the 3rd top layer: a baked ceramic top coating. The distinguishing feature of the silver ceramic coating is the tight joining of the baked ceramic top coating and the chemical conversion film thanks to the cross-linking effect. These layers are bonded together with the metallic zinc layer through chemical reac tions, and this unique method of combining layers results in a rigid and dense combination of the coating films. The coating does not attribute its anti-corrosion properties to merely a single material, but the synergy of these three layers, which combined have superb rust proof qualities.

Compatible with metal coated and painted surfaces, fasteners coated with silver ceramic are resistant to acid and alkaline attack, galvanic corrosion and hydrogen embrittlement.

These fasteners conform to corrosive gas test standard (Kesternich) DIN50018 and give a Salt Spray Fog test to exceed (JISZ2731) 1000 Hours. (ASTM B117)